CargandoCargandoKioto tiene cientos de templos y el error es querer ver demasiados. Los más conocidos están en extremos opuestos de la ciudad y se llenan a media mañana, así que el orden importa más que la lista: lo famoso, temprano; lo tranquilo, a la hora en que todo el mundo va a lo famoso. Aquí va agrupado por zonas, para no cruzar la ciudad dos veces el mismo día.
Kyoto in one dayIf there's only one day, this is the one that pays: Fushimi Inari at seven in the morning, the only hour when the ten thousand torii are free of people; Kiyomizu-dera mid-morning, climbing the Sannenzaka lanes; and Gion at dusk, when the odd maiko crosses on her way to work. All three sit on the same train line.1 day· 3 stops
Kyoto in three daysThe three essentials with a day each: Fushimi Inari at seven in the morning, because by ten there are ten thousand people between the torii; the Golden Pavilion and Nijo Castle; and Kiyomizu walking down to Gion at dusk, which is when the geisha go out to work.3 days· 7 stops
Kyoto in five daysThe usual three, a fourth in Arashiyama with the Philosopher's Path on the way back, and a fifth in Nara: forty minutes by train and deer that bow to you for a biscuit.5 days· 10 stops
TapasPontocho
TempleNara, in a day
NeighbourhoodGion
TempleGinkaku-ji and the Philosopher's Path
ShrineFushimi Inari Taisha
MonumentNijo Castle
TempleKinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion
NatureArashiyama bamboo grove
on 1 trip
TempleKiyomizu-dera
MarketsNishiki Market
💡In Gion there are alleys where photography is banned
They are private streets, with signs and fines, and it has been enforced seriously in recent years because things got out of hand. Do not chase a maiko down the street for a photo: she is on her way to work. On the main streets you can photograph freely.
💡Kyoto works by bus, but not at rush hour
The bus network reaches where the train does not and is the normal way to get around, but by mid-morning the tourist-line buses are full and painfully slow. Use the train for anywhere far and keep the bus for short hops. You pay as you get off, and it helps to have coins.
💡Fushimi Inari, at dawn or at night
It is always open and free, so there is no reason at all to go when everyone else does. At seven in the morning the torii are empty and the light comes in sideways. At night it is lit and has a different feel, though the climb feels longer.
💡Do not throw away the train ticket until you are out of the station
At many stations you need it to open the exit barriers.
💡Do not stop at Tokyo
Kanazawa, Takayama or Koyasan tend to surprise people more than they expect.
💡Always carry a little bag for your rubbish
There are very few bins in the street.
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