CargandoCargandoMálaga dejó hace tiempo de ser solo la puerta de la Costa del Sol. Entre la Alcazaba, el Gibralfaro y una lista de museos que no esperas en una ciudad de su tamaño, el centro se recorre andando en un día largo. Lo difícil no es verla, sino irse: la playa de la Malagueta está a un paseo del casco antiguo.
Málaga in two daysThe hill and the Roman city on day one, dropping down to the market for lunch; day two, the Picasso — three minutes from the house where he was born, closed Mondays — the Soho murals and sardine skewers on the beach at sunset. All on foot, without a single taxi.2 days· 8 stops
Málaga in four daysTwo days of city on foot, a third given over entirely to the Caminito del Rey with the ticket booked weeks ahead, and a fourth on the bus out to Nerja. No hire car at any point.4 days· 10 stops
Málaga in 6 days, the city and the provinceFour days in the city — the Alcazaba with the Roman theatre at its feet and Gibralfaro above, the Picasso, the Atarazanas market, Larios, the murals of Soho and La Malagueta beach — and two out of it: the Caminito del Rey, which must be booked ahead because places are limited, and Nerja with its caves.6 days· 10 stops
Picasso MuseumGibralfaro CastleThe Roman Theatre
Atarazanas Market
Calle Larios and the old town
La Malagueta
El Soho
El Caminito del Rey
Nerja and the Balcón de EuropaThe Alcazaba💡The espeto is eaten on the beach and only in months with an R, they say
Sardines threaded onto a cane and grilled over wood in a boat. The sardine is at its fattest from May to September, which is exactly when the old rule says no. Eaten with your hands, no cutlery.
💡Málaga has thirty-seven museums, and many are free at the end of the day
The Picasso, the Thyssen and the Pompidou open free for the last hours on Sunday. With two well-planned days you can see three museums without paying, and they're the good ones.
💡Book El Caminito del Rey a month ahead, and turn up on time
It's one-way: you enter at the north end and leave at the south, with a shuttle bus between the two. Miss your entry slot and there's no second chance. Helmet compulsory, they hand it to you.
💡From the airport, the local train costs under two euros
It runs every twenty minutes and reaches the centre in twelve. It also links Torremolinos, Benalmádena and Fuengirola along the coast, so you barely need a car.
💡In July and August the city happens from seven to eleven
At midday it goes past thirty-five degrees and the marble centre is an oven. Museums in the afternoon, beach at the end of the day and terraces from nine, which is what everybody here does.
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