CargandoCargandoNaples looks alarming from a distance and is a pleasure up close: loud, dense, and considerably safer than its reputation suggests, as long as you take the same care you would in any big city. The key thing is that almost nobody comes only for the city: Pompeii, Vesuvius and the Amalfi coast are full-day trips, and they're what decide how many days you need.
Naples in three daysThe city on day one, with the Veiled Christ in the Sansevero, entry at fixed slots and by booking. The volcano and what it buried on day two, with the museum before the ruins, because that is what makes them make sense. And day three by boat to the small island.3 days· 8 stops
Naples in five daysThe museum before the ruins, Pompeii and Vesuvius on the same day, and two days on the water: Procida first, then the Amalfi coast. In August the Procida ferry fills up, so book it ahead.5 days· 10 stopsMuseumThe Sansevero Chapel and the Veiled Christ
VillageProcida
MonumentGalleria Umberto I
MuseumNational Archaeological Museum
NatureThe Amalfi Coast
ViewpointThe San Martino hill
NeighbourhoodSpaccanapoli
MonumentPompeii
NatureMount Vesuvius
MonumentCastel dell'Ovo
💡Good pizza costs four euros and comes in two kinds
Margherita or marinara: that's the whole menu in the old pizzerias, and it's enough. If the menu has thirty options and photographs, you're in the tourist one. You eat in twenty minutes and you don't book.
💡Get to Pompeii on the local train, not on a tour
The Circumvesuviana leaves Naples every half hour and the ticket costs three euros. It's an old train and it's packed: wear your bag on your front and keep your phone out of sight.
💡Pompeii and Vesuvius: first thing, or not at all
There isn't a single tree in the ruins and August goes past forty degrees. Get in at opening, carry two litres of water each and a hat, and leave the museum for the afternoon, where there's air conditioning.
💡Naples isn't dangerous, it's intense
The traffic ignores even zebra crossings: you cross at a steady walk and the scooters go round you. What there is, is pickpockets in the centre and on the train, so bag on your front and that's that.
💡Coffee is drunk standing, at the counter, in one go
Sitting at a table costs three times as much for the same coffee. You order, you pay, you drink it in twenty seconds and you leave. And here a coffee is always an espresso: if you want anything else, say so.
¿Vas a Naples?
Guarda estos sitios, conviertelos en un viaje y encuentra con quien hacerlo.
Crear cuenta gratis