Berlin in 5 days, both Berlins

💡Carry cash, even if you never do anywhere else

Berlin is the European capital of nur Bar: bars, kebab places and even the odd restaurant take no cards. Withdraw from a bank ATM, not the yellow ones on the street, which charge a fee.

💡On Sunday the supermarkets close, not the city

Not one supermarket opens, so shop on Saturday. The museums do open, the parks are full and half of Berlin has a flea market: Sunday here is the best day of the week.

💡Berlin is flat and looks better from a bike

There are cycle lanes almost everywhere and the city hasn't got a single hill. Rent by the day, not by the hour, and don't walk on the red strip of the pavement: you will get shouted at.

💡Nobody checks your ticket at a barrier

There are no gates: you buy the ticket, you validate it yourself in the little yellow machine on the platform, and that is that. Nobody asks until the plain-clothes inspectors get on, and then the fine is sixty euros.

💡At club doors you go in one at a time

The bouncers decide and never explain. Small group, no shouting, don't turn up already wrecked at seven, and no phones in the queue: inside, most of them ban photos outright.