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The whole old town unhurried, which is how it should be seen, plus what lies outside the wall: the Tavera hospital, home to El Greco's last painting and empty of visitors. Sleeping in Toledo changes the trip: at night it empties and the streets become another thing.
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💡Toledo is a hill, and the escalators are free
The old town sits on top of a crag and from the station or the car parks below it is a long climb. There are free public escalators that take out a good chunk of the gradient, and using them is not cheating: it saves you arriving wrecked at your first stop. Flat shoes, because the paving is river cobble.
💡What the tourist wristband covers, and what it does not
The wristband gets you into seven monuments: Santa María la Blanca, San Juan de los Reyes, Santo Tomé with the Burial of the Count of Orgaz, the Salvador church, the Jesuit church with its towers, Cristo de la Luz and the Colegio de Doncellas Nobles. What almost nobody realises until they reach the ticket desk is that neither the cathedral nor the Alcázar is included: those are separate.
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