CargandoCargandoAsturias no es un sitio, es una ruta. Entre los Picos de Europa, los pueblos marineros y ciudades como Oviedo y Gijón, las distancias son cortas en el mapa y las carreteras se toman su tiempo, así que el viaje se decide por zonas, no por kilómetros. Y conviene llevar chubasquero: el verde no sale gratis.
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Asturias in two daysOviedo and a cider house on day one, with the Ruta de las Xanas in the morning so you are not indoors all day; day two, Gijón and Cudillero. The Xanas takes three hours and is not hard.2 days· 5 stops
Asturias in five daysTwo days of valleys and trails, two on the western coast and a last one in the east, where the odd beaches are: Gulpiyuri, which never touches the sea, and the blowholes of Pría, which only sound when the swell is up.5 days· 12 stops
Asturias in a weekThe three walks with a day each, the two cities, and both ends of the coast without hurrying. The Ruta del Alba is an out-and-back along the same path, and it is almost seven kilometres each way.7 days· 13 stops
The Bear Trail
The bufones of Pría
Ruta del AlbaRuta de las Xanas
Cabo Vidio
Ribadesella
Gijón and Cimadevilla
Cudillero
Gulpiyuri beachA sidrería, pouring includedOviedo
Llanes and the Cubes of Memory
Playa del Silencio
Bulnes
Cangas de Onís
Covadonga Sanctuary
The Cares Route
Lakes of Covadonga💡Cider is ordered by the bottle and poured by the waiter
You don't order it by the glass and you don't pour it yourself, unless the house has a pouring machine. Everyone shares the same glass, and here that's normal, not odd.
💡A cachopo is for sharing, whatever the menu implies
Two veal fillets stuffed with ham and cheese, breaded, weighing half a kilo. One feeds two hungry people. Same with the fabada: a half portion is a portion.
💡Here you walk in mud most of the year
It rains a lot and the woodland paths never dry out: boots with grip, not street trainers. And check whether the route is a loop or there-and-back before you set off, because many of the good ones make you return the same way.
💡Here you do need a car, and the roads are narrow
The coastal villages are badly connected to each other and the good beaches sit at the end of a track. Reckon on twice the time the map says: everything here is bends.
💡Here the rain falls quietly and it's called orbayu
A fine drizzle that doesn't soak you but doesn't stop either, and can fall any month of the year. That's why everything is green. Always a raincoat in the car, and don't cancel the plan: nobody here does.
💡Check the tide table before going to any beach
On this coast the tide comes in high and fast: some beaches vanish completely and some coves have to be left early. Gulpiyuri without a low tide doesn't exist, literally.
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