CargandoCargandoBerlin doesn't have one centre, it has several, and everything is a lot further apart than the map suggests: it's an enormous city next to other European capitals. Public transport isn't optional here. And much of what people come to see isn't a monument but a place where something happened — without the context it's just a stretch of concrete.
Berlin in one dayA day following the line where it ran: from the gate left stranded in no man's land to the last painted stretch, taking in the memorial and the park that grew on top of it.1 day· 4 stops
Berlin in three daysThe historic centre and the Wall on day one, the museums and the dome on day two, and day three for the Berlin of now: park, flea market and Kreuzberg after dark.3 days· 9 stops
ParkMauerpark on a Sunday
MonumentHolocaust Memorial
MonumentThe Reichstag dome
MonumentBrandenburg Gate
NeighbourhoodKreuzberg
SquareGendarmenmarkt
MuseumMuseum Island
ArtEast Side Gallery
ParkTempelhof, the airport turned park
💡Carry cash, even if you never do anywhere else
Berlin is the European capital of nur Bar: bars, kebab places and even the odd restaurant take no cards. Withdraw from a bank ATM, not the yellow ones on the street, which charge a fee.
💡On Sunday the supermarkets close, not the city
Not one supermarket opens, so shop on Saturday. The museums do open, the parks are full and half of Berlin has a flea market: Sunday here is the best day of the week.
💡Berlin is flat and looks better from a bike
There are cycle lanes almost everywhere and the city hasn't got a single hill. Rent by the day, not by the hour, and don't walk on the red strip of the pavement: you will get shouted at.
💡Nobody checks your ticket at a barrier
There are no gates: you buy the ticket, you validate it yourself in the little yellow machine on the platform, and that is that. Nobody asks until the plain-clothes inspectors get on, and then the fine is sixty euros.
💡At club doors you go in one at a time
The bouncers decide and never explain. Small group, no shouting, don't turn up already wrecked at seven, and no phones in the queue: inside, most of them ban photos outright.
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