CargandoCargandoSon cincuenta kilómetros de carretera de curvas entre Vietri y Positano, y esa carretera es el problema y la gracia del viaje. Conducirla cuesta —es estrecha, va colgada y los autobuses de línea ocupan casi todo el ancho—, así que muchos la hacen en el autobús SITA o en barco, que además evita aparcar, que aquí es carísimo. Todo está cerca en kilómetros y lejos en tiempo: contar media hora entre pueblos vecinos es realista.
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The Amalfi Coast in one dayThe three essentials in the order the road puts them: Positano first thing, while you can still park; Amalfi and its cathedral at midday; and up to Ravello in the afternoon, three hundred metres higher, where you see the whole coast at once. Fifty kilometres that take three hours of hairpins: the bus is calmer than the car.1 day· 3 stops
The Amalfi Coast in three daysThe three villages you have to see, plus the boat day to Capri. Base yourself in Amalfi or Praiano, which sit in the middle and save you road: from either end you lose an hour each way.3 days· 7 stops
The Amalfi Coast in a weekThe same without rushing, plus the Sentiero degli Dei day — which needs a whole day and an early start — and the two villages at the eastern end, Vietri and Cetara, where the food is better and there are half as many people.6 days· 10 stopsAtrani
CapriAmalfi Cathedral
Sentiero degli DeiPositano
Cetara
Praiano
Vietri sul Mare
Ravello and Villa Rufolo
Fiordo di Furore💡Think twice before driving the SS163
It is narrow, hangs off the cliff, and the line buses take up nearly the whole width: meeting one on a bend means reversing. And parking runs four to six euros an hour in the villages, when there is space at all. The SITA bus covers the whole coast, and in summer the boat between villages beats the road.
💡August is the worst month, and not only for the crowds
In August the heat, the cruise ships and the Italian holidays all land at once: the villages seize up, prices jump and the bus goes past full. May, June and September have the same sea and half of everything else. From October many hotels and boats close until Easter, so check before booking off-season.
💡There is no flat ground here: count steps, not kilometres
Positano, Atrani, Praiano and Ravello are hillsides, and moving around them means going up and down all the time. Three hundred metres on the map can be two hundred steps. Wear shoes with a sole, not flat sandals, and if you are travelling with someone who struggles with slopes, factor it into where you sleep.
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