CargandoCargandoDublin is one of those capitals you can walk end to end, so the plan isn't about getting around, it's about choosing: nearly everything worth the time sits between Trinity and the river. The budget goes on pints and paid attractions, because the national museums are free and they're good. And it rains — that isn't a cliché, it's a planning constraint.
Dublin in one dayA day for what explains the country: the Celtic gold and the bog bodies, the manuscript from the year 800 and the gaol where the Rising ended. All three are free or nearly.1 day· 3 stops
Dublin in two daysThe centre on foot on day one, from the library to the gaol by way of the brewery; day two, the big park in the morning and the train to the cliffs in the afternoon.2 days· 7 stops
Dublin in 4 daysDay one Trinity and south of the Liffey; day two west, with St Patrick's, the Guinness and Kilmainham Gaol, where Irish independence makes more sense than in any museum; day three the National Museum and Phoenix Park; and day four out to Howth by train, half an hour, for the cliff walk and fish.4 days· 9 stops
Phoenix Park
St Patrick's Cathedral
Guinness Storehouse
Kilmainham Gaol
Temple BarNational Museum of ArchaeologyTrinity College and the Long Room
The Howth cliffsGrafton Street💡In a pub you talk to strangers and nothing bad happens
Sitting alone at the bar here is an invitation to a conversation, not a problem. If there's live music, you listen: during the slow songs everyone goes quiet, and whoever doesn't is very noticeable.
💡A Guinness is poured in two stages, and you wait
Three quarters filled, left to settle for two minutes, then topped off. If it comes in one go, it isn't poured right. And at the bar you order and pay there and then, not at the end.
💡It rains a little, most days
They aren't storms: it's drizzle that comes and goes in ten minutes. Nobody changes plans for it. Hood up and carry on; an umbrella is no use because the wind comes sideways.
💡Dublin is expensive, above all for a bed
Accommodation prices are absurd and everything fills months ahead. Book early, look at the neighbourhoods beyond the canal, and eat at lunchtime, when the set menus cost half what dinner does.
💡Get a Leap card for the bus, the tram and the local train
On the bus, if you pay cash you need the exact fare and they give no change. You buy a Leap in any newsagent, top it up, and it costs half as much.
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