CargandoCargandoEdinburgh is two cities side by side and stacked on top of each other: the medieval one, steep and narrow, and the Georgian one, flat and orderly. You can walk all of it, but you walk uphill. A lot of the best of it costs nothing — the national museums, the viewpoints, the graveyards — so here the budget is decided by which days fall during festival season, not by how many tickets you buy.
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Edinburgh in one dayA full day for nothing: the national museum, the Royal Mile and its closes, the village by the river and the two hills. In this city the best of it has no box office.1 day· 5 stops
Edinburgh in two daysThe Old Town top to bottom on day one, castle to palace; day two, the volcano in the morning and the two lower neighbourhoods in the afternoon, finishing on the hill at sunset.2 days· 8 stops
Edinburgh in 4 days, both citiesThe old town for the first two days — the castle, the Royal Mile and, at the end of it, Holyrood and the climb up Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano inside the city. Day three the National Museum and Calton Hill at dusk. Day four the new town from below: Dean Village by the river and Stockbridge, where people actually live.4 days· 9 stops
Palace of Holyroodhouse
StockbridgeNational Museum of Scotland
Calton HillVictoria Street
The Royal MileEdinburgh Castle
Arthur's Seat
Dean Village💡Whisky is taken with a splash of water, not with ice
It isn't fussiness: water opens up the aroma and ice shuts it down. Any pub will put a little jug beside you so you can do it yourself. And ask for whisky, never for scotch on the rocks.
💡Everything is twenty minutes away on foot, and everything is uphill
The Old Town and the New Town sit at different levels and you go between them by stairs and bridges. You don't need transport: you need decent shoes and no hurry.
💡There are four seasons in a single afternoon here
It can be sunny, hail and be sunny again within two hours, in any month of the year. Hooded rain jacket, always, and forget the umbrella: in this wind it won't last five minutes.
💡In August the city triples in size for the Fringe
The world's biggest theatre festival fills every basement in town and accommodation costs four times as much. If you're going, book in January; if not, go in May or September.
💡The national museums are free, and they're the good ones
The National Museum of Scotland and the National Gallery charge nothing. What you pay for is the castle and the ghost and Harry Potter tours, which is exactly the least worthwhile part.
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