CargandoCargandoIstanbul is split by the Bosphorus and the classic mistake is treating that as a detail: crossing from one side to the other eats more time than anyone allows for. Most of what people come to see sits in Sultanahmet, all within walking distance, but the real city starts once you cross. And mosque opening times shift five times a day around prayer.
Istanbul in one dayA day where almost nothing costs: two free mosques, the spice bazaar with its samples, the ferry over to Asia and a neighbourhood dinner.1 day· 4 stops
Istanbul in three daysThe old city on day one, with the three big ones together; day two, the bazaars and the tower; day three, the ferry to Asia and dinner in the quarter no outsiders reach.3 days· 9 stops
Istanbul in 5 days, both shoresSultanahmet for the first two days, with Topkapi getting one to itself because half a morning isn't enough. Day three the two bazaars. Day four crosses the Golden Horn: Galata and a boat up the Bosphorus at dusk. And day five to Asia, to Kadıköy, where the food is best and where almost no tourist sets foot.5 days· 9 stops
Kadıköy
The Spice Bazaar
The Bosphorus ferry
Galata TowerBasilica Cistern
The Grand BazaarThe Blue MosqueHagia Sophia
Topkapı Palace💡Haggling isn't a fight, it's the conversation
In the bazaar you ask, you accept the tea they offer with no obligation, and you counter at a third of the asking price. If you don't agree, thank them and walk: half the time they call you back before the corner.
💡Buy an Istanbulkart the moment you arrive
It works on trams, metro, buses and the ferries, and one card covers several people: tap, and tap again. Without it every journey costs twice as much.
💡In mosques: shoes off, shoulders covered, hair covered for women
You leave your shoes in a bag at the entrance and there are scarves lent at the door. You don't go in during prayers, which happen five times a day and last twenty minutes. Entry costs nothing.
💡Taxis only on the meter, or through the app
It's the city's classic problem: with no meter they charge whatever they like, especially from the airport. Ask for the meter as you get in, or use the official taxi app and pay through it.
💡Turkish breakfast is a full meal
Cheeses, olives, eggs, tomato, bread and endless tea, served until mid-morning. It costs little, it's shared and it saves you lunch. Look for the word kahvaltı.
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