Prague is small, and that's what fools people: yes, you can walk it, but Charles Bridge and the castle concentrate so many visitors that the same street at nine in the morning and at noon are two different cities. What organises the day here isn't what to see, it's what time to see it. And the Jewish quarter is visited on one combined ticket, not separately.
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Prague in one dayA day on the other side: the empty fortress, the house that dances and the park with the best view in the city. The same Prague, without the queue in front of you.1 day· 3 stops
Prague in two daysThe castle side on day one and the Old Town on day two, crossing the bridge first thing both mornings. All on foot, without leaving the centre.2 days· 6 stops
Prague in 4 days, and two hillsThe old town and the Jewish quarter on day one; day two you cross Charles Bridge early, while you still can, and climb to the castle through Kampa. Day three the two hills: Petřín with its lookout and Letná, home to the beer garden with the best view in the city. And day four Vyšehrad, the other fortress, which almost nobody visits and where Dvořák is buried.4 days· 9 stops
Kampa and the Lennon Wall
The Dancing House
Charles Bridge
Letná and its beer garden
Vyšehrad
Josefov, the Jewish quarter
Petřín hill
Old Town Square
Prague Castle💡Stamp the ticket as you board — it covers tram, metro and funicular
Buy it from the machine on the platform or on the app, then validate it in the little yellow box on your way in. There are thirty and ninety-minute tickets: ninety crosses the city with room to spare.
💡In restaurants in the centre, watch what lands on your table
The bread, nuts and dip that turn up unasked all get charged for, and you can simply hand them back. Read the menu before you sit down, too: on the main square the same dish is triple the price.
💡Beer costs less than water, and that isn't a figure of speech
Half a litre of Czech beer is cheaper than a bottle of water in the same bar. Away from the main square, dinner with a beer comes to less than a set lunch back home.
💡Don't change money at the exchange booths on the street
Czechia pays in crowns, and the offices in the centre advertise zero commission with a dreadful rate. Take money out of a bank ATM and pay by card: it will ask whether you want to pay in euros, and the answer is no.
💡You can see all of Prague before nine in the morning
The centre is small and by mid-morning it is full of tour groups. Get up early two days running and you will have the bridge, the square and the castle nearly to yourself; then nap like everyone else.
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