CargandoCargandoToledo cabe en un día, pero no en una tarde. El casco histórico está encaramado sobre un meandro del Tajo y sus calles suben, bajan y se cruzan sin orden aparente, así que perderse forma parte de la visita. Lo que más se olvida es mirarla desde fuera: la vista desde el otro lado del río explica la ciudad mejor que cualquier plano.
Toledo in a dayThe essentials, entering by the Alcántara bridge and finishing at the Valle viewpoint at sunset. If you only go into one thing, make it Santo Tomé: a small chapel with a single painting, and that painting is The Burial of the Count of Orgaz.1 day· 7 stops
Toledo in 2 days, without the morning coachToledo is done in a day and understood in two. Day one the obvious: the Bisagra gate, the cathedral, the Alcázar and El Greco's Burial of the Count of Orgaz at Santo Tomé. Day two entirely in the Jewish quarter — Santa María la Blanca, El Tránsito and San Juan de los Reyes — and at dusk to the Valle viewpoint opposite, which is where El Greco painted it from.2 days· 8 stops
Toledo in two daysThe whole old town unhurried, which is how it should be seen, plus what lies outside the wall: the Tavera hospital, home to El Greco's last painting and empty of visitors. Sleeping in Toledo changes the trip: at night it empties and the streets become another thing.3 days· 13 stops
Tavera Hospital
Santa María la Blanca synagogue
El Greco Museum
Santo Tomé and The Burial of the Count of Orgaz
San Martín bridgeThe Primate Cathedral
The Alcázar
The Mirador del Valle
The Tránsito synagogueThe Bisagra GateThe Alcántara Bridge
San Juan de los Reyes
The Cristo de la Luz mosque💡Toledo is a hill, and the escalators are free
The old town sits on top of a crag and from the station or the car parks below it is a long climb. There are free public escalators that take out a good chunk of the gradient, and using them is not cheating: it saves you arriving wrecked at your first stop. Flat shoes, because the paving is river cobble.
💡What the tourist wristband covers, and what it does not
The wristband gets you into seven monuments: Santa María la Blanca, San Juan de los Reyes, Santo Tomé with the Burial of the Count of Orgaz, the Salvador church, the Jesuit church with its towers, Cristo de la Luz and the Colegio de Doncellas Nobles. What almost nobody realises until they reach the ticket desk is that neither the cathedral nor the Alcázar is included: those are separate.
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