CargandoCargandoVenice changes completely depending on the hour: between ten and five it's a corridor of people, and at eight in the morning or nine at night it's a different city. Which is why sleeping on the islands rather than on the mainland isn't a luxury here, it's what decides which trip you get. And getting lost is part of the plan: the map lies about distances.
Venice in two daysSan Marco and the Doge's Palace first thing, before the cruise ships arrive; the Rialto and its market, open seven to noon and closed on Sundays; and the Zattere at dusk, which is where the people who live here sit.2 days· 6 stops
Venice in four daysThe usual two and two further out: the islands — Murano, where the glassmakers were confined in 1291, and Burano with its coloured houses — and a day through Cannaregio and the Ghetto, the Venice where people still live.4 days· 10 stops
IslasMurano
VillageBurano
MonumentDoge's Palace
NeighbourhoodThe Ghetto
MarketsRialto Market
ViewpointThe bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore
MonumentRialto Bridge
NeighbourhoodCannaregio
PromenadeThe Zattere
SquareSt Mark's Square
💡If you come and go the same day, there's a fee
Venice charges day visitors who don't sleep in the city, on certain high-season days. You pay online before arriving and you must carry the receipt: they check at the station and the car park.
💡Getting lost is part of it, but download the map first
The alleys follow no logic at all and your phone loses signal between the buildings. Download the map offline before you go out and follow the yellow signs, which point to Rialto and San Marco.
💡A single vaporetto ticket costs almost ten euros
A five-minute hop costs what a meal does. If you're taking more than three, get the 24, 48 or 72-hour pass: it pays for itself on day one.
💡Dinner is standing up, in a bacaro, on cicchetti
They're Venetian tapas: order two or three, have them with a glass of house wine and move on to the next bar. Ten or twelve euros, and better than anything on a canal-side terrace.
💡A gondola has a fixed price, and it's per boat, not per person
Half an hour costs what it costs, written down or not, and up to five people fit: split five ways it stops being outrageous. The traghetto, which crosses the Grand Canal standing up, costs two euros.
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