Lisbon in three days

💡There's beach half an hour away on the local train

The line from Cais do Sodré to Cascais runs along the water the whole way and stops at several beaches. It's covered by the transport pass and is one of the loveliest rides you can take on an ordinary city ticket.

💡The bread and olives on the table are not free

It's called couvert and it arrives unasked: bread, butter, cheese, olives. If you touch it, it goes on the bill. It isn't a scam and it's perfectly legal, but you can simply send it back if you don't want it.

💡Sintra is a full day, with tickets bought beforehand

Plenty of people squeeze it into a morning and end up seeing half a palace in a hurry. It is 40 minutes by train, plus a bus or taxi up into the hills, and tickets for Pena and Regaleira sell out in season. Book the first slot of the day and come back at sunset.

💡Portuguese calçada is lethal in the rain

Lisbon's pavements are polished stone, on a slope. Dry they are already treacherous; wet they are an ice rink. When it rains, walk down the middle of the street or on the textured bits, and forget smooth soles.

💡Tram 28 is transport, not an attraction

It runs packed, it's where most of the city's pickpockets work, and at peak times you won't even see out of the window. If you want the ride, board at the start of the line first thing. If you just want to get up a hill, the funiculars do the same without the queue.

💡The funiculars are included in the transport pass

The Bica, Glória and Lavra funiculars have an eye-watering single fare, but they're covered by the day pass. With the rechargeable card you can ride up the hills as often as you like for the price of a day's metro.

💡At Pastéis de Belém, go inside instead of queueing

The queue in the street is for the takeaway counter. Inside there are several rooms with tables and you usually get in sooner, with the advantage that they come out freshly made. Cinnamon and icing sugar are on the table: you add them yourself, they do not come on top.

💡The viewpoints are free and they're half the city

Santa Luzia, Portas do Sol, Senhora do Monte, São Pedro de Alcântara: they cost nothing, they're always open and several have a kiosk with tables. In Lisbon the afternoon plan is stringing two or three together, and it beats any ticket.