CargandoCargandoAthens takes fewer days than most people book, and that's the good news: the essentials are concentrated and one combined ticket covers nearly all of it. The bad news is the heat, which from June to September forces the Acropolis to first thing or last thing, never the middle. Whatever time is left over goes to the sea, which is closer than it looks.
Athens in one dayThe Acropolis first thing, when it opens and the sun is not yet punishing, and then the museum, which is where what you have just seen makes sense. The afternoon on foot through Plaka and Monastiraki. One day covers the essentials.1 day· 4 stops
Athens in two daysThe rock and what lies below it on day one, starting with the museum; day two, the market, the square and the hill to watch the sun set over all of it.2 days· 9 stops
Athens in 4 days, unhurriedThe Acropolis and its museum on day one, while your legs are fresh; the Agora and the old quarters on day two; day three for the market, the stadium and Lycabettus at dusk; and day four out to Cape Sounion, ninety minutes away, to watch the sun set behind the temple of Poseidon. Four days is what Athens asks for and almost nobody gives it.4 days· 9 stops
The Ancient Agora
Cape Sounion
Panathenaic StadiumAcropolis Museum
Varvakios Central MarketPlaka
MonastirakiThe Acropolis
Lycabettus Hill💡From June to September, do the ruins first thing
It's all white stone with no shade and midday goes past forty degrees; some days the Acropolis closes because of the heat. Out at eight, eat, sleep, and out again at six.
💡The first Sunday of the month, November to March, everything is free
State archaeological sites charge nothing, the Acropolis included. Also 18 April and 18 May. It doesn't apply in summer, which is exactly when it would help.
💡The combined ticket covers seven sites over five days
It costs barely more than the Acropolis on its own and gets you into the Agora, the Temple of Zeus and four more. Buy it at any of them, and at the small ones there is no queue.
💡If a waiter calls you over from the doorway, keep walking
In Plaka and Monastiraki, the place that sends someone out to catch you has the worst kitchen and a menu with photographs. Eat where nobody is outside calling and the menu is Greek with a handwritten translation.
💡Airport to centre: forty minutes on the metro for ten euros
The blue line runs into town in forty minutes and you have to validate the ticket at the barrier. A taxi costs four times as much and in traffic takes just as long or longer.
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