Es el sitio más árido de Europa —llueve menos de doscientos litros al año— y eso explica todo lo demás: no hay pinos ni sombra, el paisaje es volcánico y pelado, y por eso se conservó sin construir cuando el resto de la costa mediterránea se llenaba. Hace falta coche, pero en verano las pistas a Genoveses y Mónsul se cierran y hay lanzadera. Lleva agua siempre: en la mayoría de las playas no hay absolutamente nada.
Cabo de Gata in 2 daysThe park's two halves in two days: the volcanic south with the lighthouse and the film-set beaches, and the mining north with the fishing village. You need a car to move between them, even if the last stretch to the big beaches is by shuttle.2 days· 6 stops
Cabo de Gata in 4 daysThe whole coast from south to north, from the lighthouse to Carboneras, without skipping any of the villages. With this much room you can fit in the coves reachable only on foot and still swim without watching the clock. Four days is what the park asks for if you are coming from far away.4 days· 10 stops
Cabo de Gata in 6 days, south to northThe whole park in the order it lies, starting at San José and working up the coast: Genoveses and Mónsul first, then the lighthouse and Mesa Roldán, then the village of La Isleta and the gold mines of Rodalquilar, and finally Agua Amarga and Playa de los Muertos. In summer some beaches require booking car access.6 days· 10 stops
Playa de los Muertos
Arrecife de las Sirenas
Playa de Mónsul
Las Negras
El Playazo de Rodalquilar
Agua Amarga
La Isleta del Moro
Playa de los Genoveses
Mesa Roldán
Rodalquilar and its gold mines💡In summer you cannot drive to the best beaches
From mid-June to mid-September the tracks to Genoveses and Mónsul are closed to private cars. You park at the San José checkpoint and a shuttle bus runs every half hour, with a return ticket bought on the spot. The car park fills by mid-morning in August: either arrive before nine or come after five. On foot from San José it is about four kilometres to Genoveses, mostly flat but with no shade.
💡There is no shade anywhere here
This is the driest spot in Europe: under two hundred millimetres of rain a year and not a tree along the whole coast. Most beaches have no bar, no drinking water and no bins. Bring more water than you think you need, your own parasol and sunscreen, and avoid the middle of the day from June to September. Phone coverage fails in several coves, and at Playa de los Muertos there is no lifeguard and the seabed drops away a few metres from the shore.
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