CargandoCargandoKraków is one of those places where the trip is decided outside the city: Auschwitz and the Wieliczka salt mines are each a long half-day out, and doing both in one day does justice to neither. The city itself takes two unhurried days, and it's one of the European capitals where money stretches furthest.
Kraków in one dayWawel Castle in the morning, the Market Square and the Cloth Hall at midday — where the trumpet sounds every hour and cuts off mid-note, and that has seven centuries of explanation behind it — and the afternoon in Kazimierz. All on foot.1 day· 4 stops
Kraków in three daysThe old town and the kings' hill on day one, the memory of the twentieth century on day two, and day three underground in the salt mine or up at the viewpoint nobody finds.3 days· 9 stopsMonumentWawel Castle
MonumentSt Mary's Basilica
ViewpointThe Kościuszko Mound
HikingMorskie Oko and the Tatras
MonumentThe Wieliczka salt mine
NeighbourhoodPodgórze and Ghetto Heroes Square
NeighbourhoodKazimierz
SquareThe Main Square and the Cloth Hall
MonumentAuschwitz-Birkenau
💡Winter is genuinely cold, and it's still the best time to come
December to February goes below zero and sometimes below minus ten. But the square under snow and the Christmas market are worth the coat. Thermals, and shoes with grip on ice.
💡You pay in złoty, and it's one of the cheapest capitals in Europe
There's no euro here. Pay by card in złoty and always refuse when the terminal offers to charge you in euros. Dinner with a beer in Kazimierz costs half what it does in any western capital.
💡The milk bar is what to look for if you want to eat cheap
They're canteens left over from the communist era, with a set lunch for four euros and genuinely home-style food. You order at the counter and carry your own tray. Ask for pierogi, which is what people eat here.
💡Auschwitz is booked months ahead, and entry is free
The individual unguided slots go first. Book on the museum's own site, not the ones reselling with transport included. And don't bring a big rucksack: over a certain size they won't let it in.
💡The centre is entirely walkable, ringed by a park
Where the walls stood there is now the Planty, a green belt around the old town: twenty minutes from one end to the other. For Kazimierz and Podgórze, the tram costs under a euro.
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