CargandoCargandoLos Dolomitas no se recorren en línea: son valles que salen de un macizo, y para pasar de uno a otro hay que subir un puerto. Eso hace que las distancias engañen —cuarenta kilómetros pueden ser hora y media— y que convenga elegir una base y salir en radio, en vez de cambiar de hotel cada noche. Ortisei o la Val Gardena para el lado tirolés; Cortina para el italiano. Y ojo con los accesos: los tres sitios más famosos exigen hoy reserva previa o tienen la carretera cortada a ciertas horas.
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The Dolomites in 2 days, a weekend's worthTwo tight days without crossing the massif: the first, the Tre Cime and lake Braies, forty minutes apart; the second, the Giau pass and the Cinque Torri, both beside Cortina. In summer you must book car access to Braies and the Tre Cime, and the slots go early.2 days· 4 stops
The Dolomites in four daysThe essentials from a single base, so you never change hotel: the two lakes, the Tre Cime and a day of mountain passes by car. With four days, stay in Cortina, which sits more centrally for what you will visit.4 days· 7 stops
The Dolomites in a weekBoth sides of the range, switching base halfway: first the Italian side from Cortina, then the Tyrolean from Ortisei, where they speak Ladin and German and everything changes. Seven days makes room for the Alpe di Siusi and the Marmolada, each of which needs a full morning.7 days· 10 stops
Passo GiauCinque Torri
Alpe di Siusi
Ortisei and Val Gardena
Lago di Carezza
Val di FunesCortina d'Ampezzo
Marmolada
Lago di BraiesTre Cime di Lavaredo💡The three most famous places can no longer be visited without booking
Tre Cime requires an online reservation for every car and the toll is €40. Lago di Braies requires a booking from 1 July to 15 September to drive in between 9am and 4pm, with a combined ticket at €44. And on the Alpe di Siusi the access road is closed to cars from 9am to 5pm. Check the current year's rules before you go: they change every season.
💡Every village has three names, and your sat-nav knows one
Ortisei is also Urtijëi and St. Ulrich; Bolzano is Bozen. Italian, German and Ladin coexist here and the signs carry all three. If the sat-nav cannot find a place, try the other name. This is not folklore: South Tyrol was Austrian until 1918 and German is still an official language, so in many villages you will be served in German before Italian.
💡From November to May half the passes are shut
The Giau, the Sella, the Pordoi and almost all the high passes close with snow and do not reopen until late May or June, depending on the year. That does not mean you cannot come in winter: it means the valleys stop being connected over the top and you have to go round, which can turn forty kilometres into two hours. Check pass status before planning routes.
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