CargandoCargandoOporto se baja hacia el río y se sube de vuelta, y eso decide el día más que el mapa. La Ribeira y las bodegas de Vila Nova de Gaia quedan a cada lado del Duero, unidas por el puente de Luis I, y lo que parece un paseo corto puede acabar en una cuesta larga. Aquí va repartido para bajar una vez y subir una vez, no cuatro.
Porto in one day, bank to bankThe Ribeira in the morning, with its packed coloured houses running down to the Douro; then across the Dom Luís I bridge on the upper deck, forty-five metres up, which is where the view is; and the afternoon in the Gaia cellars, all on the far bank and offering tours with tastings. You come back by boat or on foot along the lower deck.1 day· 3 stops
Porto in a weekendThe Ribeira and the wine lodges on day one, crossing the bridge on the upper deck at sunset, and the centre on day two. Book the Lello online: there is an entrance fee and the queue without a booking runs well over an hour.2 days· 7 stops
Porto in four daysThe same unhurried, plus what lies outside the centre: Serralves, with its museum, Art Deco house and park, and tram 1 to Foz, where the Douro ends and the Atlantic begins. And São Francisco, which looks like nothing outside and is lined with gold within.4 days· 13 stops
Porto Cathedral
Serralves
Tram 1 to FozDom Luís I Bridge
Church of São Francisco
Torre dos Clérigos
Palácio da Bolsa
São Bento stationThe Vila Nova de Gaia cellars
Crystal Palace Gardens
Bolhão Market
Livraria LelloRibeira and the Dom Luís I bridge💡Lello is booked by the hour, and there is still a queue
Paid entry, with a time, and the fee comes off if you buy a book. By mid-morning you cannot move and you see nothing. Take the first slot of the day: it is the difference between a beautiful bookshop and a jam of raised phones.
💡Eat across the river, not on the Ribeira
The riverfront is the priciest part of the city and not the best. Two streets up, or across in Gaia, you get a proper francesinha for half. And the lunchtime set menu is the best invention in Portugal.
💡Porto is one continuous hill
From the river to the centre there is an enormous climb and you do it all on foot. There is a funicular at the Ribeira, and the upper bridge saves you half the ascent. Comfortable shoes, and do not trust distances on the map: five minutes in a straight line can be a hundred metres of climb.
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